Wednesday, 26 February 2014

26 Feb - John Oxenbridge - preacher, troublemaker, family man

Having searched for information about Francis Holyoke, came across references to another out-of-the-ordinary minister of Southam, John Oxenbridge (1552-1617), 'a learned and pious Puritan devine and friend of the Throckmortons'.

This was the age after the split from Rome. The Throckmortons were an extended local family with connections to royalty and much involved in national politics and intrigue. (Francis Throckmorton was famously executed in 1584 for allegedly plotting to murder Queen Elizabeth and replace her with Mary Tudor.) John courted controversy himself with his fundamentalist views, being called twice before ecclesiastical courts, the second time being suspended from office.

John's will survives, giving a small insight into domestic affairs around the turn of the seventeenth century. He leaves his house and garden in Coventry to his wife and daughters, as well as his 'brass''plate''pewter''linen''bedding', and 'all other implements and utensils whatsoever' belonging to the house. All the 'English books' his wife wants from his library she can have, and the remainder to be given to his son, Daniel (1571-1642).  A small debt that his son owes him, he instructs to be paid to his wife, but all other debts to be forgiven. Lastly, 'To Hope Gellibrand my grand child a piece of plate worth in value four nobles or thereabouts.'

John's son, Daniel, avoided becoming embroiled in ecclesiastical affairs by becoming a doctor of medicine and moving to London, where he died. Daniel's son, John (1609-1674), escaped in a different way, by migrating to America, and becoming pastor of the First Church of Boston in 1670.

Tuesday, 25 February 2014

25 Feb - Francis Holyoke, a genius forgotten

The first recorded battle of the English Civil War on open ground was in the countryside around Southam, 23 August 1642, when Lord Brook ordered his parliamentary guns to open fire on a royalist brigade which found itself unexpectedly opposing him. When the cannons stopped firing nine years later, 160,000 were dead (3% of the population of Britain), with many others dying of disease, starvation and displacement. The first recorded burial from this conflict was in Southam churchyard, a man called John Brown*, a parliamentary soldier.

[*Not to be confused with John Brown the militant American anti-slavery campaigner, whose actions helped spark the American Civil War two centuries later.]

Who presided over John Brown's burial is not recorded. Was it the royalist rector of Southam, or some puritan stand in? Whether it was him or not, the day was a disaster for the minster of Southam, Francis Holyoke. Until then, in spite of the town being allegedly parliamentarian in sympathy, he had lived a peaceful, interesting and productive life, earning himself the nickname 'The Holy Oak' and practicing as a loyal servant of the king.

Francis Holyoke was a well-educated man, a sort of Dr Johnson of his day. Born at Nether Whitacre in north Warwickshire in 1567, he was educated at Queen's College Oxford, and steadily progressed over the years in ecclesiastical circles, becoming rector of Southam in February 1604. He was married to Judith, with a single son, Thomas, born in 1616. His passion, if not obsession, was etymology - the study of words.

The standard dictionary of the time was Rider's Dictionary. Francis freely plagiarised and 'improved' it, republishing the book as Rider's Dictionary Corrected in 1606, with several subsequent editions into the 1640s. There was some legal dispute about whether this should be allowed, but there was no such thing as copyright law in those days. Francis's work would have been familiar in literate circles, on every college library shelf and in every classroom. It was the Oxford English Dictionary of its day.

It would be fascinating to know what connections Francis had in literary circles, and more about the man as an individual. There is a reference to him in connection with Burton's famous The Anatomy of Melancholy (1621), but I'm not aware of any surviving documents, other than his dictionaries and a couple of standard sermons. What is known, is that on 22 August 1642, his world collapsed.

Parliamentarian troops on their way to Warwick occupied Southam for two nights. Francis, a keen royalist, had his home stormed, his servant killed (according to a later statement by Francis's son), and Francis himself summarily ejected from his position as rector. It was claimed that arms were found in his house, but this is by the parliamentarian chroniclers who are not necessarily reliable. These were brutal times, with parliamentary troops acting in a manner comparable to the Taliban today, in their levels of intolerance and brutality towards opponents.

His remaining years were spent in impoverished circumstances, living on charity, his wife dying an early death because of the trauma she suffered (this again is according to the statement made by their son in an appeal to parliament for financial aid). Francis lived on, dying nine later, aged 86 - a remarkable age for the time - having witnesses a world turned upside down by religious and political extremism and the rise and rise of Oliver Cromwell at the head of English parliamentary affairs. He is buried in St Mary's Church, Warwick.

Images:
* http://www.flickr.com/photos/xanthias/533127481/in/photostream
* http://www.abebooks.com/servlet/BookDetailsPL?bi=11942862720

Thursday, 20 February 2014

20 Feb - Bush Hill & Shuckburgh / Chesterton - 915.7 miles to go

Strode out a bit more today. Starting at Lower Shuckburgh, walked along the canal then across the fields (and across the county border into Northamptonshire) to Bush Hill, then back into Warwickshire and over Shuckburgh Hill. 6.2 miles.


This was good fun. With a little more free time, would have gone on to Napton Hill and back along the canal to the start point, but some other time.

Good paths all the way, although often soggy on the lower ground. Yes, Wellies still.

In the evening, Dorota and myself walked around Chesterton, adding another 3.2 miles, and we saw a hare.


The hare in the evening




The Grand Union Canal between Napton and Shuckburgh
Bridge 103 on the Grand Union Canal
Another twisted stump, with lichen, moss, broken bark and suckering stems.
Looking back to Bush Hill

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Wednesday, 19 February 2014

19 Feb - Offchurch and the River Leam - 925.1 miles to go

Offchurch village, north across the fields, across a footbridge over the River Leam, past Cubbington, along the Millennium Way, recross the river near Offchurch Bury, and back to the start point. 5.8 miles.

A good walk, with little rises and dips in the landscape to help exercise the legs. Walking quickly, I can still feel the muscles in my legs buzzing. Scenery nothing special, simply  'nice to get out' type of countryside.

In the evening, a pleasant walk over the top of Napton Hill with Dorota, my wife. 0.7 miles.

Manor Farm sheep

Having noticed them once, now noticing these lichen and moss landscapes everywhere.

Funny little craft at Fields Farm, one of a small collection of hulls.

Footbridge over the River Leam. A month ago this was unreachable because of thigh-deep floodwater.

Still muddy, but ground much less water-logged and the walk was just about do-able in walking boots, although I chose Wellies, once again, today - so much easier to clean.

Near Redhouse Farm.

The first blossom I've noticed this year.

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Friday, 14 February 2014

14 Feb - The Battle of Southam

Growing up in Southam, a piece of local lore I'm familiar with is that the English Civil War began not at Edge Hill on 23 October 1642, but at Southam on 23 August, where there was a 'skirmish' in which some soldiers died.
 
Sitting at home on a grey, wet, windy day, decided to do a bit of digging and learn a little about this.
 
COVENTRY
 
Charles I
By 1642, the English parliament had decided that it should have the final say when it came to law-making and big decisions of state, not the king. King Charles I, on the other hand, believed that he should have the final say on everything, and absolutely not accept any limitation on his royal prerogative by parliament. They argued, and on 12 August 1642 the king sent out a proclamation that his supporters should take up arms and assemble with him at Nottingham. He had effectively declared war on his own parliament.
 
While he was riding through Warwickshire, Charles I learnt that parliamentary forces were intending to occupy Coventry, so he decided to occupy the town first himself.

With cavalry, ground troops and cannon, he succeeded in blasting down the gates of the town on 18 August, but the garrison and citizens of the town barricaded the streets so effectively that the Royalists could not force their way in. The king's brutal actions helped alienate him from the citizens of the town, who were subsequently strongly pro-parliament. There were a number of deaths during this siege, both civilian and military. [1, 2]
 
SOUTHAM
 
A second attack on Coventry by royalist forces was feared, so measures to defend the town were begun under the command of Lord Brook of Warwick. First of all he headed for his home town to make sure it was safe, as well as collect ammunition from his stores in the castle. He passed through Southam (22 August) on the way, intending to rest there, but before his troops had bedded down news came that royalist forces were indeed in the region, and were intending on blockading roads to the north (at 'Dunsmore'), only a couple of miles away. [1]
 
In the dark, Brook roused his men and "led [them] up to the top of a hill ... and so lodged all that night in a field not far from the town". The Royalists appeared in the morning, and by 8 a.m. (23 August) there was a stand-off, with hundreds of men on both sides lined up in battle formation. [1]
 
Brook
  
Brook was the first to order his troops to open fire, using cannon to cut down a section of the Royalist cavalry ... "five horses [later] being found slaine, and the legs and arms of some of their riders". He then turned his fire on the infantry with similar devastating effect. The Royalists returned fire, but failed to inflict any injury (although the author in this source is strongly anti-Royalist, so may be not entirely truthful). In further skirmishing "a [Royalist] drummer and two others [were] slaine, and 'twas probably supposed many other", "There were some nine prisoners taken in all, and about forty found slaine". There are mentions of royalist bodies being carried away and disposed of in a river. (It was also rumoured that Charles I and his champion, Prince Rupert, were with the royalist forces at Southam, but fled when they realised they were losing, however, this may be complete fiction.) [1]
 
The parish register records a single burial:
John Brown alias Pisely Souldier Under Captain Jones in ye Regiment of Robt Lord Brook. Aug. 23. The same day the Battle was fought Between Lord Brooke and ye Earle of Northampton. [5]
 
Where was the battle? A cannon ball, possibly from this conflict, was dug up in a garden on the north side of Southam in 1970. If Royalist troops were indeed in the Dunsmoor area, then perhaps the action took place on the "hill" which is now the cement works quarry north of the town. [4] However, Francis Smith, writing in 1825, states that the battle was on the south-west side, between Southam and Bishop's Itchington, but also that skeletons, possibly from the battle, were found at 'Southam Grounds', which Victorian maps call the area immediately to the east of Southam ('Southam Fields' on more recent maps). [6]
 
(There's an additional tale to be told about Francis Holyoake, vicar of Southam at the time. His is said to have been a staunch royalist, in spite of the town being generally pro-parliament. Brook detained him and searched his house, allegedly finding ammunition. I'll may research that story another day.)
 
EDGE HILL
 
Having only a small cavalry section, Brook could not pursue the fleeing royalists, but he did seize their abandoned cannon. He and his forces stayed in Southam that night, marching to Coventry the next morning, where they were welcomed. [1]
 
Throughout England at this time, local royalist and parliamentarian forces were jockeying for position, occupying this or that town or castle by goodwill, agreement or force, until 23 October, when the first major pitched battle took place at Edge Hill. Five hundred died there, but with neither side being able to claim victory. The bloody English Civil War had began. [3].
 
 
 
CONCLUSION
 
In the sense of a battle in open ground, Southam seems to have a fair claim to be the first recorded battle of the English Civil War, although those involved in the siege of Coventry might argue. However, sources mention local trouble throughout the country at this time. It may be that some other town or village has an equal or better claim. Southam, by chance, just happens to have the best record.
 
So, was the Battle of Southam the first action in the English Civil War? Yes, ignorning Coventry and any other local scraps around the country.

Sources:
 
[1] Author? (1860) The Warwickshire Antiquarian Magazine. Part II.
[2]
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_Coventry#Civil_War_and_aftermath
[3] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Edgehill
[4] http://timetrail.warwickshire.gov.uk/detail.aspx?monuid=WA771
[5] William Lilley Smith (1894) Historical Notices and Recollections Relating to the Parish of Southam, in the County of Warwick, Together with the Parochial Registers from.
[6] Francis Smith (1825) Warwickshire Deliniated. Page 92
 
Images:

Thursday, 13 February 2014

13 February - Stockton Reservoir - 931.6 miles to go

My wife and I walked around little Stockton Reservoir late this afternoon. ½ a mile.

Thanks to the rain, wind and generally unpleasant conditions, now 50 miles behind schedule. Tomorrow I have a day off work, and the forecast is (of course) rain and wind.

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A heron at Stockton Reservoir
One other bird seen today - the weathercock in top of Southam church spire. Wish I could say I know a little more about it, but I don't. Who made it, what it's made of, when it was made? All I recall is that it has a hole in the middle of his tail from some ancient vandal taking a potshot at it, and that I have seen a photograph taken during restoration work of it being held in someone's hands and not too long ago, I think.

Tuesday, 11 February 2014

11 Feb - More on Southam's 'Big Barn'

Had a kind email from Worcester Archaeology after querying the 'probable post-medieval' statement that has appeared in the Warwickshire Historic Environment Record (HER):

Hi Jonathan.
I'm not sure where the 'probable post-medieval' date for the Warwickshire HER record came from! ... the indications are that was constructed sometime in the late 13th - 14th century ... We'll post a link once the analysis & report is completed ... all the comparable tithe barns in the region seem to date from around 1250-1350.
Rob Hedge.
So, back to 1250-1400, which coincides with Frocester barn (built sometime between 1286 and 1306), which is of a comparable style.

Monday, 10 February 2014

10 Feb - The 'Chapel' in the Fields

With work, rain, shopping and college (taking my wife there and back), no opportunities for walking in recent days, so a little bit more on Southam history - the 'chapel' in the fields.

In the middle of a field to the west of Southam stands an old building (SP408616). It is built of small limestone blocks, giving a similar appearance to the Old Mint and the 'big barn' excavated last year near the church. On the Southam 'Time trail' guide published by the council and in the online record, it is suggested that it is a medieval chapel.

I remember the barn from a visit in the early 1980s. There were stone-mullioned windows on both sides of the building, and a massive wooden door lintel in place. In recent years I visited again, and was sad to discover all the windows caved in or vandalised, and the lintel rotting on the ground inside the doorway. A tin roof that had been partly peeling away on my earlier visit is now completely fallen in.


Old photo showing the south side of the building in 1974.
 © Copyright Greg Fitchett andlicensed for reuse under this Creative Commons Licence.


Old photo of the north side of the building (source?).





The barn in 2007 - the window mullions have collapsed or been vandalised, the roof completely gone and the wall tops crumbling.
The south side of the building - the fallen lintle lies in the grass at the far end, and the collapsed roof can also be seen, Southam church steeple in the background. Taken on a frosty January morning in 2007.
The building has never struck me as a chapel-like, or even medieval. The style of the windows appear more seventeenth or eighteenth century, and the arrangement of the windows and doors are vernacular rather than church-like. But I'm no expert. Southam's 'big barn', contrary to my pronouncements earlier in this blog, is now stated to be post-medieval in the excavation report.

The idea if it being a chapel comes from a single suggestion made in 1996, but there are no other sources for this idea that I'm aware of. (It is nice to see an old family friend mentioned several times in the official record, Trevor Rogers, who sadly passed away a few years ago.)

In Warwickshire Country Records Office there is a map dated 1754 (document ref: CR1470 / Box 2 / Bundle 24), which shows these fields were occupied by small enclosures, with a number of buildings dotted about on the map. The area in question was at that time occupied by a Mr Manders and a Mr Woods, and the 'chapel' may well have been one of the buildings represented in the map. Unfortunately the map it is not accurate enough to precisely match the buildings indicated with the 'chapel'. There is just not enough information.

Sometimes I feel history like is a jigsaw with 99% or even 100% of the pieces missing. The picture below is of the ruinous church at Bower in Caithness, Scotland (I lived up there for a few years). The building does not appear particularly old, it has numerous burials in and around it, some inconclusive architectural features, and must have been in use in relatively recent times, yet, nothing is know about it. NothingThere is no record of its building, abandonment, what clergy presided at it, or its ecclesiastical affiliations. The remains of the building are simply there, its history lost, an unrecoverable blank.

Bower Church, Caithness, Scotland. It is there, hidden under all the ivy.


Southam's 'medieval chapel' is a similar historical blank. Quite an impressive building in its time. However, unless the site is ever excavated, like Bower, it will remain a complete and unsolvable mystery, until the walls crumble, or are cleared away, or declared unsafe and a danger and demolished, the site ploughed over and all physical trace gone.

Friday, 7 February 2014

7 Feb - Draycote anticlockwise - 932.1 miles to go

The good thing about Draycote Water is that it's a convenient five miles around and a good road surface all the way, so ordinary footwear is fine. It can be cold and windy, and at the weekends crowded, but still a simple, well-defined walk. There's even a café.

I parked at the edge of Dunchurch (SP481709) and walked past the alpaca farm. A steep slope down to the reservoir gave the walk added interest at the beginning and end. 5.8 miles.


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What is it? A horse? A camel? An emu? No, it's an alpaca!

The reservoir from the hillside above the Toft end

One always sees something. Today, a squirrel with a cone.


A moss-scape ...

... and a cloudscape.
The pale ribbon at the bottom is the flooded River Leam.




Tuesday, 4 February 2014

4 Feb - Boddington Reservoir - 937.9 miles to go

Dorota (my wife) and myself took a walk in the cold wind, around Boddington Reservoir late this afternoon. 1.6 miles.

Not far round, but always pleasant, and brings back fond memories of days spent birdwatching here - various ducks, geese, goosanders and grebes, a couple of kingfishers, herons and cormorants, gulls galore, terns (including a remarkable evening when scores of black terns took over the reservoir), and a great variety of other species over the years.

On one occasion discovered a female Black Redstart, a rare birds in Britain. Another skilled birdwatcher happened to be there and together we put the record in to the local bird club.  A few years later, on exactly the same date and also in almost precisely the same spot, saw another one, only this time a male. Never put that record in, as suspected it might not be believed.

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Monday, 3 February 2014

3 Feb - Sunrise


A day at work, but a lovely sunrise. Work, work, work, but may escape for a few hours on Wednesday.

Saturday, 1 February 2014

1 Feb - Ufton Wood - 940.9 miles to go


After two weeks of almost continual rain, finally got a break, and got out!

Parked at Bascote Heath, took the path (SP390623) along edge of the wood, north on track to the canal, eastwards to Bascote Top Lock, then paths, tracks and the road back to the beginning. 4.6 miles.

Easy-going paths and tracks. As with elsewhere, probably more attractive in the spring. 


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Path by the side of Ufton Wood
Ufton Wood
Look back towards Ufton from The Ridgeway
The Ridgeway Track (not much of a ridge)
Bridge 31 on the Grand Union Canal - the HS2 railway will cross the canal at this point
Hidden in the trees at Bascote Heath is a derelict little wooden building - I presume connected with the private graveyard a little further up the road which belongs to the Chamberleyne family of Stoneythorpe Hall